Herringone Parquet Flooring Installation Instruction

Handling, Storage, Installation and Tips
At HexaWood Herringbone parquet flooring is generally manufactured in 2 layer construction, different widths in mm wide and different lengths in mm (dimensions available). Herringbone Flooring is one of the most difficult patterns to lay out and install therefore it is best to leave it to a skilled craftsman.
We recommend glue and secret nail installation methods.
HANDLING, STORAGE & JOBSITE CONDITIONS
Do not handle flooring in a manner that would expose it to rain, snow or sleet. Flooring should be stored in a completely enclosed covered building that is well ventilated, and preferably has weather proof windows that admit sunshine. Leave adequate room around the stacks of flooring for good air circulation. An unheated warehouse is preferred. If the building is heated, the temperature should not exceed 220C.
Upon delivery, break the flooring into small lots and store it in the rooms where it will be installed. Allow 2 to 3 days for the flooring to become acclimated before beginning the installation.
INSTALLATION
I. Prepare the subfloor
CONCRETE SLAB Check the slab to see that it is properly constructed and thoroughly dry. Check for unevenness, Grind off high spots, and use filling compound for low places.
PLYWOOD SUBFLOORS should be at least 19mm thick and nailed down well. Touch sanding may be required at joints to even out surface. Where the subfloor is too uneven, apply 10mm plywood underlayment.
BOARD SUBFLOORS (up to 150mm square edged) also require good nailing. If uneven, boards may require sanding. Nail 10mm plywood underlayment on boards.
II. Lay out the Room

1. Check the room for squareness. Measure the diagonals of the room. If they are equal, the room is square.
2. Herringbone is, at best, a difficult pattern to put down. Two things must be considered when deciding on the orientation of the Herringbone pattern
   A. The long dimension of the room.
   B. The pattern running to the major architectural interest point of the room e.g. main entrance, win- dow wall, or fireplace.
3. Pre-plan your working lines. It is usually best to center your first line along the orientation of the pattern (Drawing 1.) This line is called the “centerline.” Plan the layout, follow the example given in Drawing 4.

III. Snap the chalk working lines.

1. Snap the centerline.
2. Establish the center focal point of the pattern desired for your layout. (A Herringbone pattern unit may have 3 center points)
3. Chalk the reference line along the points of the pattern as shown in #5. This line is parallel to the

centerline and is the distance from the selected center point of the pattern to the far left point of the pattern. (This is the line to begin laying to.)

1. Snap the baseline perpendicular to the centerline about 1 or 1.5 m from the near wall. Drawing #2 Check the angle, using the 1200, 1600, 2000 mm triangle (use 300, 400 & 500mm triangle for smaller areas).
   Measure 1200mm along the baseline from the intersection of the baseline and the centerline. Then measure 1600mm from the same point along the centerline. The distance between these two points will be 2000mm IF the baseline is perpendicular to the centerline.
   IF THE LINES ARE NOT PERPENDICULAR, FIX THEM. (See Drawing #2.)
2. Chalk the Starter Diagonal Measure 1200mm along the baseline and the reference line.
   (See Drawing #3.) Scribe an arc from each point that intersects in the upper right quadrant. Chalk a line that passes through the intersection of the two arcs and the intersection of the baseline and reference line.
3. Chalk the Reference Diagonal -- as shown in Drawing #4. Use the same procedure as for the Starter Diagonal.

IV. Spread the adhesive.

1. Be sure that the interior of the room in which you are working, and the adhesive are in the proper temperature range recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, usually 18 to 220C. If it is colder or warmer than recommended, there could be difficulty in spreading the adhesive or getting it to set up as desired. Always follow the manufacturers’ directions.
2. Observe the manufacturers’ recommendation for “open time” (Setting up or hardening). This allows the adhesive time to evaporate solvents and come to the proper consistency for sticking down the flooring.
   DO NOT COVER THE WORKING LINES WITH ADHESIVE. (Drawing #5) (Reference Line, Diagonal & Baseline.)
   SPREAD ADHESIVE AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT OBSCURING THE WORKING LINES.
3. Do no cover the area most convenient to the entrance and starting point with adhesive so movement of materials can be accomplished without awkward motion or stepping in adhesive. This area is covered with adhesive toward the end of installation after all materials are in the room.

V. Start installing flooring at intersection of all working lines.
(The selected center point of a Herringbone Unit will be along the centerline.)

1. Place the first piece of flooring as shown in Drawing #5. The tongue edge of the piece should face the far wall, with the tongue edge along the Starter Diagonal. The left corner of piece #1 should be aligned with the intersection of the reference line and baseline.
2. Place the second piece as shown in Drawing #5. This piece must be perpendicular to piece #1. Use a small carpenter’s square to insure PRECISE ALIGNMENT. These two pieces determine the squareness of the entire installation. After a piece has been placed on the adhesive, there can be minor adjustments in alignment by tapping the piece with a rubber mallet or similar instrument.
3. Continue placing the pieces in the order shown in Drawing #5. Continue with the pattern until reaching the far wall. Then work the pattern to the right, one row at a time, alternating the direction of the flooring. (Always orient the tongue in the same direction.)
   Start each row carefully. Use the square to align the starting piece on each row and periodically check alignment. Leave pieces that fit along walls as the last step.
4. Upon completing the upper right quadrant, go back to the intersection of the working lines and complete the upper left quadrant one row at a time. Carefully align the first piece of each row and periodically check alignment with the carpenter’s square. Alternate the direction of the flooring until upper quadrant is completed.
   THIS IS USUALLY THE BEST TIME TO FINISH BRINGING FLOORING INTO THE WORK AREA. STORE IT ON AREAS ALREADY COMPLETED. NOW SPREAD ADHESIVE OVER THE WALKWAY TO COMPLETE THE JOB.
5. Continue in the two remaining areas. Start at the centerline and continue working the pattern backwards. When installing the pattern backwards it is easiest to maintain alignment by coming back

with double rows, as shown in Drawing #6. The first double row back into the lower left and right quadrant will be aligned with the reference line.” After completing the first double row, continue installing two rows at a time until reaching the left wall. Finish lower right quadrant in the same manner, working from center to walls.

1. Cut pieces to within 10-15mm of the walls. THIS 10-15mm IS EXPANSION SPACE.
   “Fit” flooring into doorways where it is to butt against other flooring, or against a reducer strip. Leave 10mm expansion space around masonry structures, such as a fireplace. (This void can be filled with a solid piece of cork and stained.)
2. Use spot cork blocking around the perimeter of the room between the flooring and the walls, (Drawing #6.) to allow the flooring to expand and contract. (Do not use flooring scraps.)
   GENERAL REMINDERS

A.Upon opening flooring cartons, read manufacturers’ recommendations and follow them carefully.
B. Most wood floor adhesive s will allow pieces to slip, when sideways pressure is applied, for some time after “open time” has elapsed. By working on knee boards or plywood panels laid on top of the installed area you avoid this sideways pressure. For the same reason, no heavy furniture or activity should be allowed on the finished parquet floor for at least 24 hours.
C. For installation over suspended slabs which are thoroughly dry, no vapor barrier is necessary. However, test for moisture to be certain no excessive moisture condition is present.