Engineered Wood Floor Installation Instruction
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
APPLICATION
HexaWood flooring can be installed as a floating floor or glued down to the sub floor. The advanced profile (made using HOMAG machinery) makes the installation simple, safe and durable.
JOB SITE INSPECTION
The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry.
The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed.
Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away from the building. Basements and open spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
AMBIENT CONDITIONS: all rooms shall be normally heated during installation (minimum 18°C/65°F), the relative humidity must be between 40 % and 60 %. Maintenance of the correct relative humidity during and after installation reduces the possibility of deformation and the appearance of small openings in the floor. High temperatures from open fireplaces, tiled stoves or intensive sunlight (f.e. conservatories) may cause damage. Coverage of heated floors with thick rugs or other floor covering is not recommended and may lead to unacceptable heat concentration which will result in deformation of flooring.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Handle and unload with care.
Parquet flooring should be stored in the environment in which it is expected to perform.
During winter months the flooring must remain in unopened packaging for up to 48 hours in order to reach the room temperature. The original packaging shall be opened immediately prior to installation.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
The sub floor must be free of any carpets, clean, permanently dry, level, and firm and structurally sound. Variations in level of the sub floor of more than 2 mm, measuring with 2 meters level have to be filled
or planed. Sub floors with direct contact to the soil, sections which are over unheated rooms or crawl spaces or with increased humidity loads like boiler or laundry rooms require additional protection against moisture. Skilled advice will be given from your supplier or contact the technical support centre at HexaWood.
NORMAL INSTALLATION
HUMIDITY
The allowable maximum moisture content on a dry weight basis is for concrete sub floor 2,0 %, for anhydrous screed sub floor 0,5 % and must be verified before installation.
FOR FLOATING INSTALLATION
A moisture barrier shall be laid directly on the sub floor. The barrier shall go up the walls a few centimeters. The noise protection of maximum 3mm thickness is installed without overlap on top of the moisture barrier. The flooring is glued with a continuous glue line into all grooves.
FOR GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
The suitable adhesive shall be elastic and water- and solvent-free. If necessary a primer shall be applied on the sub floor. The specific application instructions of the supplier must be obeyed.
INSTALLATION WITH UNDERFLOOR HEATING
The maximum allowable heat output is 55 W/m2 and must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor. Surface temperatures must not exceed 27°C in all places. At the start of each heating season the temperature shall be gradually increased evenly over 7 days until normal heating levels are achieved. With under floor heating some species have a greater tendency to create small splits and openings between the boards than others, f.e. Beech and Canadian Maple.
HUMIDITY
The sub floor must be dried by following the heating protocol (heating startup procedure) (refer to www. voluntaparket.lt). The allowable maximum moisture content on a dry weight basis is for concrete sub floor 1,8 %, for anhydrous screed sub floor 0,3 % and must be verified before installation.
FOR FLOATING INSTALLATION
A moisture barrier shall be laid directly on the sub floor. The barrier shall go up the walls a few centimeters. The noise protection of maximum 3mm thickness is installed without overlap on top of the moisture barrier. The wood flooring is glued with a continuous glue line into all grooves.
FOR GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
For the species Beech and Canadian Maple a moisture barrier is required on the sub floor (f.e. epoxy resin). The adhesive shall be water and solvent free and elastic. Additionally glue shall be applied into the grooves at the ends.
SPACING
Wood as a natural material reacts to changes of humidity. Between the flooring and walls, and all other hard points, such as doorframes or heating pipes there must be a gap of min. 10 – 15mm. Wooden spacers along the walls help to keep this distance during installation.
Expansion joints must be installed in all doors, or if floor segments are longer than 15m in the lengthwise direction of the flooring elements, or wider than 9m perpendicular to it. Wherever possible the flooring is laid under the door frames.
TOOLS
Apart from measuring tape, pencil, angle ruler and a saw the following tools are necessary and helpful for a quick and perfect installation: Hammer, hardwood tapping block, parquet tool, wooden distance spacers.
GLUE APPLICATION
Gluing in the grooves is done with PVAc glue conforming to the requirements which are suitable for flooring installation. For floating installation the glue is applied in the grooves along the edge and the end. If installed glue-down on under floor heating (radiant heated floors) the glue is applied at the ends only. The glue is applied as a continuous bead into the upper part of the groove.
INSTALLATION
VISUAL INSPECTION
Wood is a wholly natural product and each piece unique in color and design. Our strict quality control procedures cannot completely eliminate possible defects. Should you find a piece which does not conform to our quality, please return it to the supplier for free exchange. Please check the panels and put defect boards aside. Imperfect and already installed boards cannot be claimed.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
After laying the floor, the wooden spacers can be removed and the skirting boards can be fitted
NOTE
If further work is to be carried out in the room, the flooring should be covered with hardboard, paper or similar, in order to avoid damage. It must be a material that “breaths”.
DO NOT STICK ANY ADHESIVE, GLUEY MATERIALS, SUCH AS SCOTCH TAPE, DUCK TAPE, ETC., DIRECTLY ON INSTALLED FLOORING. THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO FINISHING, ESPECIALLY ON THERMO TREATED FLOORING, FOR WHICH SELLER DOES NOT HOLD RESPONSIBILITY.
GLUING INSTALLATION
Gluing the hardwood flooring to the sub floor is a more demanding installation method and it is recommended that it should be done by a professional.
If further work is to be carried out in the room, the flooring should be covered with hardboard, paper or similar, in order to avoid damage. It must be a material that “breaths”.
DO NOT STICK ANY ADHESIVE, GLUEY MATERIALS, SUCH AS SCOTCH TAPE, DUCK TAPE, ETC., DIRECTLY ON INSTALLED FLOORING. THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO FINISHING, ESPECIALLY ON THERMO TREATED FLOORING, FOR WHICH SELLER DOES NOT HOLD RESPONSIBILITY.
- The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it. If material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact your sales person or us immediately.
- Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring product, the installer must determine that the
job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries. These instructions recommend that the construction and sub floor be dry, solid and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies. - Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects, whatever the cause.
- Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
- When flooring is ordered, 5% to 10% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading allowance.
- Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
- Use of appropriate products for correcting sub floor voids should be accepted as a normal industry practice.
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
APPLICATION
HexaWood flooring can be installed as a floating floor or glued down to the sub floor. The advanced profile (made using HOMAG machinery) makes the installation simple, safe and durable.
JOB SITE INSPECTION
The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry.
The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed.
Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away from the building. Basements and open spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
AMBIENT CONDITIONS: all rooms shall be normally heated during installation (minimum 18°C/65°F), the relative humidity must be between 40 % and 60 %. Maintenance of the correct relative humidity during and after installation reduces the possibility of deformation and the appearance of small openings in the floor. High temperatures from open fireplaces, tiled stoves or intensive sunlight (f.e. conservatories) may cause damage. Coverage of heated floors with thick rugs or other floor covering is not recommended and may lead to unacceptable heat concentration which will result in deformation of flooring.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Handle and unload with care.
Parquet flooring should be stored in the environment in which it is expected to perform.
During winter months the flooring must remain in unopened packaging for up to 48 hours in order to reach the room temperature. The original packaging shall be opened immediately prior to installation.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
The sub floor must be free of any carpets, clean, permanently dry, level, and firm and structurally sound. Variations in level of the sub floor of more than 2 mm, measuring with 2 meters level have to be filled
or planed. Sub floors with direct contact to the soil, sections which are over unheated rooms or crawl spaces or with increased humidity loads like boiler or laundry rooms require additional protection against moisture. Skilled advice will be given from your supplier or contact the technical support centre at HexaWood.
NORMAL INSTALLATION
HUMIDITY
The allowable maximum moisture content on a dry weight basis is for concrete sub floor 2,0 %, for anhydrous screed sub floor 0,5 % and must be verified before installation.
FOR FLOATING INSTALLATION
A moisture barrier shall be laid directly on the sub floor. The barrier shall go up the walls a few centimeters. The noise protection of maximum 3mm thickness is installed without overlap on top of the moisture barrier. The flooring is glued with a continuous glue line into all grooves.
FOR GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
The suitable adhesive shall be elastic and water- and solvent-free. If necessary a primer shall be applied on the sub floor. The specific application instructions of the supplier must be obeyed.
INSTALLATION WITH UNDERFLOOR HEATING
The maximum allowable heat output is 55 W/m2 and must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor. Surface temperatures must not exceed 27°C in all places. At the start of each heating season the temperature shall be gradually increased evenly over 7 days until normal heating levels are achieved. With under floor heating some species have a greater tendency to create small splits and openings between the boards than others, f.e. Beech and Canadian Maple.
HUMIDITY
The sub floor must be dried by following the heating protocol (heating startup procedure) (refer to www. voluntaparket.lt). The allowable maximum moisture content on a dry weight basis is for concrete sub floor 1,8 %, for anhydrous screed sub floor 0,3 % and must be verified before installation.
FOR FLOATING INSTALLATION
A moisture barrier shall be laid directly on the sub floor. The barrier shall go up the walls a few centimeters. The noise protection of maximum 3mm thickness is installed without overlap on top of the moisture barrier. The wood flooring is glued with a continuous glue line into all grooves.
FOR GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
For the species Beech and Canadian Maple a moisture barrier is required on the sub floor (f.e. epoxy resin). The adhesive shall be water and solvent free and elastic. Additionally glue shall be applied into the grooves at the ends.
SPACING
Wood as a natural material reacts to changes of humidity. Between the flooring and walls, and all other hard points, such as doorframes or heating pipes there must be a gap of min. 10 – 15mm. Wooden spacers along the walls help to keep this distance during installation.
Expansion joints must be installed in all doors, or if floor segments are longer than 15m in the lengthwise direction of the flooring elements, or wider than 9m perpendicular to it. Wherever possible the flooring is laid under the door frames.
TOOLS
Apart from measuring tape, pencil, angle ruler and a saw the following tools are necessary and helpful for a quick and perfect installation: Hammer, hardwood tapping block, parquet tool, wooden distance spacers.
GLUE APPLICATION
Gluing in the grooves is done with PVAc glue conforming to the requirements which are suitable for flooring installation. For floating installation the glue is applied in the grooves along the edge and the end. If installed glue-down on under floor heating (radiant heated floors) the glue is applied at the ends only. The glue is applied as a continuous bead into the upper part of the groove.
INSTALLATION
VISUAL INSPECTION
Wood is a wholly natural product and each piece unique in color and design. Our strict quality control procedures cannot completely eliminate possible defects. Should you find a piece which does not conform to our quality, please return it to the supplier for free exchange. Please check the panels and put defect boards aside. Imperfect and already installed boards cannot be claimed.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
- Lay the first board 8–10 mm (in a normal room) from the wall with the groove side of the board towards the wall. Insert wooden spacers between the board and the wall. If the wall is particularly crooked, draw the wall contours on the first board. Saw the board to the drawn contours so that they follow the unevenness of the wall.
- When you finish a row turn the board so that tongue lies against tongue and measure and then saw the board. Then turn the sawn side of the board towards the wall, glue the end joint.
- Carefully press the joint together using a hardwood tapping block or similar tool. Insert wooden dis- tance spacers between the end of the board and the wall.
- Start the next row with the sawn board. The end joints should not be closer to each other than 50
cm. Insert wooden spacers at the end of the board. Row after row is done in the same way. Glue the tongues upper surface, press and hammer together. If there is under-floor heating, glue both upper and lower surfaces of the tongue double gluing. Never hammer the tongue or groove directly, use hardwood tapping block. Completely glue end and longitudinal joints. Use glue only recommended by professional installer.
NOTE! the first two boards must lie perfectly straight. Check this with a chalk line. - The last board usually has to be sawn down its length. Lay the last board directly over the next to last board. Take a short piece of another board, turn the tongue towards the wall and draw the contour of the wall onto the last board. Thereafter, saw the board following the drawn line. Press in last board with the help of a hardwood tapping block. Protect the wall with a piece of wood. Please note that if you have to saw off a large part of the last row against the wall, it would be more attractive to cut the boards of the first and last rows the same amount. Always check the width of the room before you start laying the boards.
- Door architraves: lay a loose piece of board against the architrave and saw. The floor is then slid under the architrave.
- Heating pipes: drill a hole 2mm larger than the diameter of the pipe.
- Along the edge of the board, saw out the back piece with a jig-saw. Angle the saw approx.45 degrees. Also saw with a 45 degree and glue to the holes. Check the fit of the back piece.
- Once the board is in place, glue the sawn out back piece. Squeeze this into place with a wedge and cover the holes around the pipe with plastic collars. On the end of a board: The same procedure but cut the board here straight over the holes with the saw at an angle of 45 degrees. Columns or similar: Cut out the necessary shape by sawing across the board and by chiseling out the waste, lengthwise.
- Skirting boards: press the skirting board down with a piece of board whilst you attach the skirting board to the wall. The skirting board should not be pressed against the floor so hard that locking occurs. Door openings: In door openings the floor should be fitted with an expansion joint, taking into account the different movements in the floors. The expansion joint can be covered with a strip of wood or metal.
After laying the floor, the wooden spacers can be removed and the skirting boards can be fitted
NOTE
If further work is to be carried out in the room, the flooring should be covered with hardboard, paper or similar, in order to avoid damage. It must be a material that “breaths”.
DO NOT STICK ANY ADHESIVE, GLUEY MATERIALS, SUCH AS SCOTCH TAPE, DUCK TAPE, ETC., DIRECTLY ON INSTALLED FLOORING. THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO FINISHING, ESPECIALLY ON THERMO TREATED FLOORING, FOR WHICH SELLER DOES NOT HOLD RESPONSIBILITY.
GLUING INSTALLATION
Gluing the hardwood flooring to the sub floor is a more demanding installation method and it is recommended that it should be done by a professional.
- Start laying the hardwood floor in a normal fashion in the direction of the long wall, the walking direction or towards the incoming light. With this installation method, an expansion gap of 5-15 mm will suffice for fixed structures and penetrations. Expansion joints (about 5 mm) are recommended for areas between separate rooms or on uniform surfaces of over 12 m crosswise. Cover the expan- sion joint with an appropriate skirting. To make the start of the installation easier, secure the start row with wedges or when necessary, shape it according to the wall line. The overlap of adjacent board ends must be a minimum of 50 cm.
- Start by applying the glue on the sub floor alongside the boards in an area of one or two rows of boards at a time, using a tongued trowel of 4 – 5 mm that is slightly narrower than the hardwood board.
- Install the first two pre-shaped rows by gluing them to each other from the tongue, lift up the plate according to figure and start applying the glue. Place the plate on the layer of glue and check the straightness of the line. Let the glue dry for approximately 30 min and continue the installation in the normal fashion.
- First, place the boards as close to each other as possible, the end tongue first. Place the boards in the tongue with a shaped striking block. After this, place them onto the layer of glue. Be careful not to stain the surface of the hardwood flooring with the glue.
- It is advisable to let the first rows of boards settle for approximately 30 min before continuing the gluing. Make sure no excess glue is applied in the tongue, because it prevents tight installation. Re- move any glue stains while fresh with, for example, white spirit.
- Continue installation by fitting the boards in advance. Consider the limitations of time required for the glue to set, particularly when working with penetrations and the last row of boards.
- If board is longitudinally curved or arched, you can cut the ground veneer from a couple of points at an angle of approximately 45°. In this way, the board settles better on the glue surface lengthwise. If some point is loose from the gluing, especially at the start or against the end walls or, for example, because of deviations on the ground, you can use a weight until the glue is dry.
- Protect the floor with clean, porous cardboard during the other finishing tasks. A pre-finished hard- wood floor does not need any surface treatment, as the boards are finished in the factory. Thou it is compulsory to re-oil flooring using Maintenance Oil (Only for Oxidative Oil finishing).
- Recommended installation glues are solvent-free polyurethane glues. The total consumption of glue is approximately 1 litre/2 m2, but it is recommended to follow instruction of glue producer. For concrete floors in particular, make sure that the glue is suitable for the hardwood flooring. Products intended for gluing the tongues in a hardwood board are not suitable.
If further work is to be carried out in the room, the flooring should be covered with hardboard, paper or similar, in order to avoid damage. It must be a material that “breaths”.
DO NOT STICK ANY ADHESIVE, GLUEY MATERIALS, SUCH AS SCOTCH TAPE, DUCK TAPE, ETC., DIRECTLY ON INSTALLED FLOORING. THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO FINISHING, ESPECIALLY ON THERMO TREATED FLOORING, FOR WHICH SELLER DOES NOT HOLD RESPONSIBILITY.